Spiti Loop

Spiti valley

I’ve recently returned from my annual pilgrimage to the trans-Himalayan region. I call this travel a pilgrimage because it has a similar purifying and enlightening effect on me. I see the crossing of the great Himalayan barrier via Rohtang Pass as a metaphor for rising above something within – the pile of residue of routine life. The real journey begins from here.

The vista changes drastically, from lush to barren, as you move to the other side of Rohtang and enter Lahaul valley. This cold desert is fertile with awe-inspiring sights handcrafted by forces of nature. Every year I try to explore a different section of this exhibition. This year I did the Spiti loop. From Gramphu in Lahual valley we traveled via Chatru, Chota Darra, and Batal to reach Kunjum La, the gateway to Spiti. The entire region was under a thick cover of snow. The colorful chortens of the Kunjum Devi temple were looking even more remarkable than usual in the midst of a complete white out.

The landscape morphed into a patchwork of fields and hamlets from Lossar onwards. We drove through an imposing gorge to reach a flat land that seemed like a landing strip for the ‘K-land’ – Kaza town, Ki village, Ki monastery, Kibber village, and Komic monastery.

After Kaza there is Dhankar monastery which was once the capital of Spiti. From here we went to Tabo and its ancient monastery, and then to the monastery at Gyu that houses the mummy of a Lama.

The Spiti loop gets closest to China at Sumdo. Next major village was Nako which is famous for its lake. From here we descended towards Kinnaur district to the other end of the Spiti loop at Shimla.

I found this track far more challenging than the Manali-Leh highway. It is this challenge of going beyond limits in pursuit of exotic beauty that draws adventurous souls to the trans-Himalayan regions. It is about the struggle and its rewards. In that sense such a travel is special because it is as much about the mountains as it is about oneself. It is not the typical disconnect of a city dweller taking a break in the hills. It is the connect with the untamed heights where a free soul seems to belong.

For detailed travelogue and photographs: write to travels@fluidverve.com