Fluid Verve

223cc Wings

It was the fourth day of the journey and probably the longest day in terms of kilometers we traveled. After a comfortable night at Jispa we set forth for a journey of about 330kms to Leh. By the time we reached Darcha, me and Mohan were drowned in our mutual interest of songs. The only mutually exclusive bit was our singing-skills, Mohan sings very well. I was humming along nonetheless till I was rendered speechless by the 10km long stretch of Zingzing Bar and the stunning view of Zanskar ranges. Perhaps in the times before time some mystical artist toppled and spilled his color palette and that’s how the place got painted in a riot of colors. The dazed state of mind of the artist took the shape of clouds and it still floats over these mountains.

I was brought back from the dreamy ecstasy (only partially) when we reached Baralacha La which is at an altitude of about 16500ft. We stopped for a bit to take photos, shoot videos, chat up with travelers from either directions, and to make home-like sculptures from stones following the belief that it’ll make our wishes come true.

Then followed the treacherously risky road to Sarchu, which acts as a boundary between Lahaul and Ladakh. From a distance the road seems to be smooth and lures the enthusiastic driver into speeding up. This road that has been known to have caused several bike accidents and even deaths packages unexpected sudden dips. One of our team mates almost landed into a mishap here. He was riding alone and speeding very fast when he hit a dip and was thrown upwards and lost all control of the bike for a few precious seconds. It was almost a miracle that he landed back on the bike seat with his hands on the handle and the bike still moving upright. He was thoroughly shaken and hit by AMS by the time we all got together at Sarchu.

From here I was to join our team leader Tribhuvan on his bike. Mohan handed over the pillion-responsibility and informed him that “ye to paagal si hi ho gayi thi” (”She had almost lost it“) recalling my euphoria at the beauty of Zingzing Bar. Soon our Karizma was zipping past the Lingti Plains and further towards Gatta Loops. Gatta Loops is the name given to the 21 hair pin bends on the uphill road that takes you to Nakee La at an altitude of 16000ft. After Nakee La we reached Whiskey Nallah. Apparently a truck carrying whiskey once upturned here and that’s how this place got such an interesting name. Within a few minutes we had crossed the third pass of the day, Lachalang La(16500ft).

It had been quite a tiring day and we halted for a tea break at Pang. We had already crossed three passes and one more was left. The frequently varying altitude was quite taxing but none of us wanted to spend a chilly night in the tents at Pang so we got back on the road. Crossing the heavy traffic of trucks we got into Morey Plains, a stretch of 45kms at an altitude of 15500ft with a desolate yet astonishing landscape on either sides of the road. Tribhuvan was revving up the engine to his heart’s content and both of us were in-sync with the bike for a thrilling ride across the plains towards the fourth pass of the day. Tanglang La at an altitude of 17500ft is world’s third highest motorable road. Past that the road gets slightly easy as you traverse the towns of Rumtse, Gya, Upshi, Karu, and Shea to reach Leh.

Sun was about to go down when we crossed Morey Plains and started ascended towards Tanglang La. The speedy ride had leveraged our spirits and perhaps it was some kind of a high that Tribhuvan was feeling when he…stood up on the bike! Picture this…riding a bike while standing, that too not on an ordinary road but a rocky climb at the speed of roughly 60kph!

I felt like an exclamation mark personified… “Woha!”

Then he sat back and said, “You can try that too”

I couldn’t believe my ears “What!”

“Yes, hold my shoulders and stand up on the foot rests”

“You really think so!” I was thinking of how clumsy I had been at the start of the trip while climbing and getting off the bike. Now what he was suggesting was…well… thrilling!

“You sure we wont loose the balance”

“Ya! Ya! Don’t worry!” he prompted.

And then…

I took a deep breath,

Prepared myself,

Held his shoulders

And…

Stood up!

<silence>

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Standing on the edge of Titanic with Leonardo Dicaprio holding you is nothing when compared to how I felt while standing on a fast moving bike up on a rocky climb with the sun going down and the wind engulfing me in a heavenly landscape!

<more silence>

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More…later…